The Third Person View Through Town

Many people are getting weary of the demonstrations blogging down in their lives and clogging the roads. It is hard to get about one's daily business without meeting either road blocks, military checkpoints, demonstrators both in fixed locations and large bodies of them marching around town, tear gas, armed hooligans and other types of armed locals.

It isn't a strange thing to accidentally get caught up in a tear gas storm if your way home happened to be along the protesters march route, maybe even a stray bullet to brighten you day.

Tahrir, is reported by some to be out of bounds not because of the pro-government camp as such but because of the horrendous stench emminating from the location. One local remarked, "they are indeed the garbage of the regime."

Balataja (hired thugs) do roam and do so openly and menacingly. Just walk by and make dua they don't take to you with a bat or butt (of a rifle).

Another group described as balataja has taken over the suburb of al-Hasabah, the location of the al-Ahmar compound. Since moving in at the start of the uprising to protect the residence of Shaikh Sadiq al-Ahmar (the eldest of the brothers and the leader of the Hashid tribal confederation) residents of the area complained of rubbish in the streets, the blocking-off of roads and thoroughfares as well as feeling of fear of their mere existance.

They are not the same as government sponsored balataja as they do not actively go out and hunt people to assault or kill, the just sit around chewing qat with their rifles. They lack basic bearing and carry their weapons in dangerous ways that could easily cause a fatality of a pedestrian should the trigger become caught on something, which during the few hours I spent in al-Hasabah, happened three times, and the locals I was visiting simply remarked, "oh, there is another one," indicating that these accidental discharges happen regularly. These hired tribesmen hardly seem a force to reckon with should an attack on the al-Ahmar compound eventuate.

While walking through the area I was myself almost bowled over as a mad dash of al-Ahmar tribal gunmen ran like a heard of startled gazelles onto the road. I wondered what had happened until I saw them all clammouring at the window of an ice-cream truck!

Also in al-Hasabah area, at jawlat as-sa'ah (intersection of the clock) which is near the Thawra Park and the Ministry of Interior one of the foreign brothers reported that he was stopped by police for an ID and weapon check. Alhamdulillah he was not harrassed further and walked away without even paying a bribe. Those police must have already bought their qat.

The protestors of Change Square are continueing with their daily marches around the area, often resulting in the blocking of the Sitten, either along the road between the Science and Technology Hospital heading west, or up the Sitteen near Al-Eman University. It seems sitting-in is not enough now, and extra measures are needed. These marches are part of the civil disobedience sweeping through anti-government camps in a few protectorates of Yemen.

One wonders how long this situation can continue as many people are now out of work due to closure of businesses, schools, universities and many other institutions around the city. Transport is difficult and journeys can take double and tripple the time the same journey would take before the uprising started.

This will be a battle of patience. Not just for the protesters and political figures, but for the residents of the whole country.

Visiting the Demonstrators

I took the opportunity to go and see both demonstration camps. First I visited the pro-Government tent city in Tahrir Square.

There is a large police presence and a series of long tents with signs letting all know who they are - the sons of Amran, or the sons of Raima etc. The face of the president is plastered on all large flat spaces and vehicles. Trade and daily business continues although restricted in speed of movement caused by all the extra tentage and people in the square. One nice touch is the folkloric displays down in the car-park bus area where you can purchace all types of traditional arts, jewellery and clothing.

Taking a trip to the anti-Government camp is not as free due to their security concerns, as they have been attacked a number of times by government supporters and a number killed. There are walls of men at each entrance - Dairi street near Jeel al-Jadeed bookstore, the other side of Dairi street half way to City Mart, Mahkama street that heads to Tahrir and at the pedestrian gate of Sana'a University. The walls are 3 deep of shoulder to shoulder youths to check anyone wishing to enter, there are also women stationed at each entrance to check any female passers-by.

Once past the security cordon, you will find a tent city bigger than in Tahrir, and a slightly more cheerful atmosphere. You will not find any pictures of the president here. On the centre monument loud speakers are set up for speakers and rally cries. There is plenty of food available. I passed through after thuhr prayer time and so many people were crashed out in the tents chewing qat.

At the moment the rallies are being peaceful and the President has ordered supporters not to harm or bother the anti-Government protesters. This is an important step by the President not just to ensure peaceful protests but to show that he is allowing dissent and people to voice their opinions against the state,

It is unclear how long these protests will continue, some say another week, others say not until the President steps down.

Yemen Protests - Advice for Foreigners

DON'T GET INVOLVED!

It may be tempting to go down to the protests even just for a look at something exciting and interesting, but I would advise you strongly against it. Stay well away from protest areas such as the front entrance of Sana'a University and Tahrir Square.

The police will have no mercy with you and as foreigners, expecially if you are Muslim and even moreso if you are Western and Muslim, it is very likely that you were already being monitored before this latest unrest.

If you were to be arrested with the anti-government protesters you'll likely be treated as a foreign spy and if you were to be amongst the pro-government protesters you'll likely be treated as a foreign spy.